How to Detect Bed Bugs in Your Home

How to Detect Bed Bugs in Your Home
By Ben Anton

A resurgence of Cimex lectularius, better known as the common bed bug , has turned playful bedtime sendoffs into truly fearful warnings.

This resurrection can largely be attributed to the halt in using the pesticide DDT that nearly eradicated bed bugs in the United States in the 1950s, leaving little to no defense against the uprising miniscule offenders today. Adding to this effect is the fact that bed bugs are nocturnal in nature, preying on sleeping people across the world.

They feed on human blood, leaving only a trail of red itchy welts or localized swellings on the skin as calling cards of their appearances.

While red marks may be an indication of an infestation, they are definitely not a confirmation. Finding these critters is no easy task, as they are approximately 4-5 mm in length with a flattened form, allowing them to hide in crevices and creases with ease.

While often found hiding all over the house, their favorite spot to conceal themselves–in the event that a mattress cover or pillow cover are not being used–is in or around the bed, hence their name. Being so close to their primary food source gives them the opportunity to feed every 5-10 days, though they are able to live up to 18 months without eating. .

A bed bug will dine on human blood for approximately 5-15 minutes before it will be fully engorged, more than tripling its size. This change has been known to cause misidentification as it becomes round in shape, different from its naturally flat shape.

Additionally, when it is an adult it becomes brown in color, except after feeding when it takes on a dark red hue due to the intake of human blood.

Because of their miniscule size and innate ability to hide, bed bugs can enter the home in a multitude of ways, including any type of object that can be transferred from one home, apartment, condo, hotels, etc., to another.

This transferability, coupled with their hyperactive reproduction, allows their wrath to be widespread very quickly, especially in homes that are older or have many cracks and crevices, messy cluttered homes, and homes where mattresses or pillows are not covered with some sort of allergen-reducing encasements.

To get a feel of their ability to infest an entire house, here are some reproduction facts:

•Females lay eggs in clusters of 3-5 in just one day
•The eggs are whitish in color, pear shaped and approximately 1 mm in length
•A female will lay up 500 eggs during her lifetime
•Eggs hatch in 1-2 weeks time
•In one year’s time, three generations of can be produced
•Newly hatched nymphs—as they are called–begin to feed on human blood immediately
•Nymphs are colorless and the size of a pinhead
•A nymph will go through five molting stages before becoming a full adult, feeding during each stage

Though these wingless vampires have been known to be brimming with pathogens—hepatitis B and plague included—they have not been shown to be a transmitter of disease. Unlike mosquitoes, they are not thought of as being a medical threat, making them more of an annoyance then anything else.

Some people try to live with bed bugs in their lives, though they often are covered with welts and scars from scratching all over their bodies.

No distance is great enough to be protected once they have entered your home. They have been known to travel over 100 feet on their own to feed, making merely disinfesting your bed and using mattress and pillow covers a futile act.

In order to be fully rid of these pests, a home needs to be thoroughly cleaned, ensuring that every crease, crevice, floorboard, outlet and corner has been cleaned and rid of them and their eggs.

Furthermore, every hole and crack should be filled and caulked, leaving little to no room for already existing eggs to penetrate the home. Once your house is rid of infestation, you should use a complete, zippered mattress encasement, a complete zippered pillow encasement, and a zippered encasement for your box spring.

This traps any existing critters inside, essentially permanently removing them from their food source, and disallowing new bugs from hiding in their beloved hotbeds.

-Ben Anton, 2007

Want to learn more about how to prevent bed bugs in your home? Visit the CleanRest website to view a wide selection of mattress covers and other allergen-reducing encasements.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ben_Anton

Have You Been Getting Bit By Pesky Fleas?

Flea Control
By Elizabeth Morgan

Fleas are small insects that are capable of giving humans and their pets big troubles with a little stab of their proboscis. There are over 2,400 species of fleas worldwide, but fortunately, there are just four or five species of fleas that are a threat to humans. The most commonly found species in America is the cat flea, which feeds on cats and dogs, as well as humans.

An infestation of fleas can be a serious threat, not merely an annoyance, in some cases. Flea bites can cause skin irritations as well serious allergies in pets and humans. Sometimes, more dangerous fleas pass on serious diseases. So it becomes very important to prevent them from breeding, or destroying them once they are present, by using various measures.

The first step towards stopping the growth of the fleas is through vacuuming the house on a regular basis. This helps in keeping the flea population low by killing adult and egg-stage fleas, although vacuuming has not proven very effective in killing the flea larvae. As a more advanced step, cracks should be sealed after vacuuming, to permanently eliminate these favorite breeding areas for fleas.

In cases of severe infestation, steam cleaning and other measures might be required. Research shows that if a cat flea larva is exposed to 103*F for one hour, it dies. Some commercial devices are available in the market to produce such lethal temperatures. As this tool that generates heat consists of a loose shaft, it can only be applied locally. Therefore, fleas may escape by hiding in the carpet or elsewhere.

Another method of killing fleas is by using insecticide on the organic matter accumulated outside the house. Another product, named Insecticidal Dust, containing silica aero gel, is also successful in killing fleas by rupturing their skin and absorbing the oil and moisture.

The direct application of products containing citrus peel extracts, d-limonene, and linalool on pets’ bedding are useful in killing fleas in all the stages of growth. Finally, pest control products sold by veterinary doctors, like sodium poly-borate, applied on carpets, are also useful in killing fleas.

Taking preventative steps at the right time can save us from the annoyance and troubles caused by these tiny creatures; but if we already have them, there are a number of ways to eliminate them.

Fleas provides detailed information about fleas defined, cat fleas, dog fleas, flea bites and more. Fleas is the sister site of Pitbulls Info.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Elizabeth_Morgan

A Good Story - A Mouse In The House

I came across a good story of someone's personal experience with rodents invading his house. I thought that you might enjoy it as I did. Here is an excerpt of the article and there is a link to the rest of the story below. I don't know how long the story will be on his site but have a look. Enjoy!

Mouse in the House
By: Hubert Crowell

Day One

I awoke early in the morning about 3:00 A.M. to the sound of stirring above the drop ceiling in our basement bathroom, the weather-had turn cold and had driven something into our warm home. We have lived in the same house for more than thirty years and have had only one mouse get in during the first few years that we occupied the house, so I was surprised.

As I do most of the work or had in the past, I was sure that there were no openings that a mouse could get through but apparently I was wrong. Our parents live upstairs on the main floor and we no occupy the basement.

Over the years we have on two occasions a squirrel came down the chimney and at that time with a cat in the house it caused quite a sene with the cat guarding the fire place and the squirrel starring back through the screen. Before it was out the door, the squirrel ran down the hall and into the bedroom, bounced off the wall and then returned to the front of the house and out the front door.

The second squirrel came down the chimney after we had an evening fire or maybe during the fire. The next morning we could hear him in the chimney and he did not sound too good. Later in the day it got quite and I knew that something had to be done. Chimneys' have a space behind the flue to prevent rain water from entering the fireplace and I assumed that must be where he was, dead I hoped.

I put on a glove and tried to see if I could get my arm up and through the flue opening. After twisting and turning my arm, I manage to get my elbow up above the flue, now to find the squirrel. I was not sure if he was dead, but at least he was not moving.

Back to the mouse, we found mice droppings in the upstairs kitchen and a box in the pantry behind the stairs that had been chewed into. He had found his food supply. After cleaning up the mess all agreed that something had to done immediately. So I headed off to the closest store to find a mouse trap. Do you know how hard it is to find a mouse trap today, after checking four stores I finely located a package of two old fashion spring loaded mouse traps?

That night I set one in the kitchen loaded with fresh cheese and another above the drop ceiling in the basement bathroom . . .

Day Two And Beyond of the Mouse In The House . . .

Glue Trap Lights For Fly Control

Glue Board Fly Killers

What is a glue board? A glue board (aka sticky board or gluepad) is a piece of stiff card with very heavy adhesive on one side. It is inserted into a fly killer machine.

What is a fly killer machine? It is a device that attracts flying insects by shining ultra violet light and then traps them.

What is ultra violet (uv) light? It is light just like any other light. It just happens to be invisible to humans but not to flies, who are extremely partial to it and tend to eagerly fly towards it. Anyway, a fly killer machine attracts flies using its uv light. Some fly killer machines have electric grids that electrocute the fly while others have glue boards on which the fly is trapped. This brings us back where we started.

Once the fly is trapped, it is no longer a threat. Fly killer machines that use glue boards are often used in situations where silent operation is required. Fly killers that electrocute (or zap) the fly give out an unmistakable noise that lets everyone know that the machine has made a kill.

Some restaurants would prefer a more subtle operation where the fly discreetly flies into the fly killer machine and never comes out - and no sound is ever heard. Glue board fly killer machines are often made to mimic wall lights. Diners in a restaurant will not give these lamps a second glance, but they are not lamps in the normal sense.

They are difference between having a fly spreading germs and giving the restaurant a bad name and a restaurant that pays regard to hygiene and has a good reputation.

If you live near a field or know somebody that does, then you may be aware that they will get more than their fair share of flies (and wasps). Similarly, if you keep livestock, have stables or even a dog, you will have more than the average amount of visits from curious flying insects. The same goes if you live near a food production plant or a refuse dump.

For those who are in these areas, they too may prefer one of these discreet fly killer "lamps" instead of the industrial-looking zappers. Life is more comfortable in a fly-free environment. There is nothing worse than trying to entertain friends with a rolled up newspaper in one hand, at the ready. To be on constant guard when you should be relaxing is not ideal. Worse still is the fact that your unwelcome visitors - the flying ones, not your friends - will also spread disease.

They will typically visit animal droppings, or a trash can, and then fly around your kitchen, spreading germs that they have picked up on their feet or regurgitating their own saliva on solids that they need to soften in order to digest. Not nice - and completely avoidable if a fly killer machine is used.

Fly killers fitted with glueboards will use less electricity than zapper fly killers. In an age when electricity prices are rising this is an increasingly significant consideration. There are also those who like to count their dead flies. Why, you may ask? Counting how many flies are killed will give an indication of the fly killer machine's effectiveness and an idea of flying insect activity.

This is particularly useful to entomologists and other scientists and researchers, especially those concerned with the environment. Pest controllers will also use this method to determine the best place to site a fly killer. By moving the machine from one location to another they can count the amount of flies caught and determine the best place to site the machine. Manufacturers of fly killer machines, such as Insect-o-cutor. also use this method to test fly killer machine designs.

The method of trapping flying insects using glue has been with us for a very long time and way before electricity came along and gave us zappers. Hanging sticky papers is a practice that still happens today. It is much less common as most people would rather not see lots of dead flies hanging in their kitchen.

Not only did electricity give us zappers but it also gave us ultra violet lamps. These will attract the flies to the glue, whereas sticky papers tended to only work if there were enough of them or if the fly's seemingly random flight pattern happened to take it to the paper.

Glue board fly killers are used extensively around the world. If you knew very little about them before and know more now, then at least, when you next are harassed by a fly that refuses to be swatted, you know there is another way to do it.

by Vernon Stent

Vernon Stent is the content writer for Arkay Hygiene. Here is a glue board fly killer, and here is a glue board

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Vernon_Stent

How To Select A Professional Pest Control Company

Selecting a Pest Control Company

If you have a problem with unwanted pests in your home, and you've exhausted all the self-help remedies you know, you may be considering hiring a commercial pest control company to deal with the problem. Hiring a professional might be exactly the right solution for you; but you need to do your homework.

First, how do you locate a company? Checking the yellow pages of your local phone book might be a good start; doing a keyword search on the Internet for your area could also work, and you have the added benefit of seeing what information the company provides, on itself and on pest control generally. Ask friends and coworkers for recommendations.

After you've developed a list of pest control services, and before you call these companies, start asking more questions of your friends and coworkers. Have any of them used these companies? What was their experience? Did the company in question solve their pest infestation issues? Were there any problems dealing with the company? Any problems in the home after the company performed their services?

Once you've narrowed down your list to a few potential providers, call them on the phone, and ask some more questions: does the company offer a free home evaluation and estimate of costs? Does it give you advice on what you can do to deal with the problem yourself? Is the company willing to answer questions readily?

Specific questions to ask: what kinds of chemicals are used? (If possible, have them provide written information on the chemicals.) What sorts of side effects or potential dangers do these chemicals have on family members, adults and children, and on pets? Do your family and household pets need to vacate the premises during the pest control treatment?

Make sure you ask whether the company offers nontoxic, natural pest control. The company should be willing to at least discuss the options; if its representative just dismisses the notion of nontoxic pest control without intelligently discussing the pros and cons of the natural remedies available, but just wants to get into your house and spray, beware!

With written information (or your own notes) in hand, do your own research on any chemicals that will be used - their effectiveness, their possible side effects, their potential toxicity. (The Internet is a great place to start for this.) If you have family members with serious health issues, particularly asthma or other respiratory ailments, make sure you know what the potential effect of sprayed compounds could have on them.

Finally, if you have any questions about the company's reliability, and you can't find anyone you know and whose judgment you trust to vouch for them, contact your local or state Better Business Bureau or Consumer Fraud Division, to find out whether there have been any complaints lodged against them.

Once you've hired a company, make sure you know who is going to be showing up at your home and when. Make sure they have proper I.D., and ask if you can be there to supervise the process or if you have to leave, and for how long.

And while you've got access to the professional treating your home, ask what you can do to avoid pest control problems in the future, particularly those involving destructive carpenter ants and termites. The guy (or gal) who actually does the work probably has insights into the subject that the office staff doesn't have.

by Aldene Fredenburg

Aldene Fredenburg is a freelance writer living in southwestern New Hampshire and frequently contributes to Tips and Topics. She has published numerous articles in local and regional publications on a wide range of topics, including business, education, the arts, and local events.

Her feature articles include an interview with independent documentary filmmaker Ken Burns and a feature on prisoners at the New Hampshire State Prison in Concord. She may be reached at amfredenburg@yahoo.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Aldene_Fredenburg

Spiders! Spider Biology, Identity, Control and Prevention Measures

I ran into a great resource the other day for not only controlling spiders, but tons of useful arachnida information and lots of pictures via a website and a PDF report that you can download from The OHIO State University website.

If you have ever wanted to know how to get rid of spiders in or around the house, here is just some of the pest control information information available there

Excerpted from OHIO State University site:

Control Measures
Control of spiders is best achieved by following an integrated pest management (IPM) approach that involves multiple tactics, such as preventive measures, exclusion, sanitation, and chemicals applied to targeted sites. IPM requires a thorough inspection of the building to locate the pest and its harborages. An inspection should be done at night if the species is nocturnal.

An important first step is to correctly identify the spider, as this determines which management tactics to adopt that take into account specific biology and habits. For example, if the spider is a web builder, control efforts should target its web because that is where this spider spends most of its time. On the other hand, active hunters are spiders that move about widely, and some species are most likely to contact insecticide-treated surfaces at ground level.

Within each of the following categories, particular tactics may be more or less applicable, depending on the species of spider:

Preventing spider bites
Shake out clothing and shoes before getting dressed.
Inspect bedding and towels before use.
Wear gloves when handling firewood, lumber, and rocks (be sure to inspect the gloves for spiders before putting them on).
Remove bedskirts. Move the bed away from the wall.
Don’t store boxes and other items underneath beds.
Exercise care when handling cardboard boxes (some spiders may inhabit the space under folded cardboard flaps).

Exclusion
Install tight-fitting screens on windows and doors; also install weather stripping and door sweeps.
Seal or caulk cracks and crevices where spiders can enter the house.
Equip vents in soffits, foundations, and roof gables with tight-fitting screens.
Install yellow or sodium vapor light bulbs outdoors since these attract fewer insects for spiders to feed upon.
Many web-making spiders set up residence near lights that remain on at night. Locate such lights away from the house or turn them off when not needed.
Tape the edges of cardboard boxes to prevent spider entry.
Use plastic bags (sealed) to store loose items in the garage, basement, and attic.

Sanitation
Remove trash, old boxes, old clothing, wood piles, rock piles, and other unwanted items.
Eliminate clutter in closets, basements, attics, garages, and outbuildings.
Store items off the floor and away from walls in basements, crawl spaces, attics, garages, and outbuildings in order to reduce spider harborage sites.
Eliminate household pests (prey) such as flies, ants, and cockroaches that attract spiders.
Do not stack wood against the house.
Remove heavy vegetation and leaf litter around the foundation.
Wash spider webs off the outside of the house using a high-pressure hose.

Non-chemical control
Capture the spider and release it outdoors. An effective technique for capturing hunting spiders is to place a cup over the spider and then slide a piece of paper underneath to entrap it.
Dust and vacuum thoroughly to remove spiders, webs, and egg sacs (dispose of the vacuum bag in a container outdoors).
Outdoors, use a water hose or broom to regularly destroy any webs that are constructed on or around the house. Spiders often move elsewhere when their webs are regularly destroyed.
Use a rolled up newspaper or fly swatter to kill individual spiders.
Use sticky traps or glueboards to entangle spiders.

Insecticides
There are many labeled pesticides for spider control. Some are labeled for homeowner use, while others are labeled only for the licensed, certified pesticide applicator.

Individual exposed spiders can be killed with a nonresidual aerosol spray, but any egg sacs will be unaffected. It generally is best to use a vacuum cleaner so that the egg sac is removed from the premises.

For web builders, insecticide treatments should be applied so that the chemical contacts spiders in their webs. A nonrepellent insecticidal dust is useful to treat webs because the dust clings to the silk and is likely to be contacted by the spider. Residual dusts can be applied to voids and inaccessible areas where spiders may hide.

A wettable powder or microencapsulated “slow-release” formulation of a residual insecticide can be applied to corners, behind and under furniture, behind stored items, etc. to control active hunting spiders. This approach also is useful to prevent establishment of new spiders. Aerosol flushing agents such as pyrethrins, though ineffective by themselves in providing long-term control, can cause spiders to move about so that they contact treated surfaces.

Residual liquid sprays can be applied to the outside perimeter of the home (including under eaves, patios, and decks; behind window shutters), cracks and crevices of decorative molding, undisturbed corners, and other suspected spider harborages. Residual liquid sprays applied to the outside perimeter of the home are not very effective for species that display web-sitting behavior.

The 'Spiders In And Around The House' Report, which has much more information, can be downloaded from the OHIO State University website through this link: Spiders In And Around The House

Yikes, Bedbugs!!!

BED BUGS! by Michael F. Potter, Extension Entomologist

Most householders of this generation have never seen a bed bug. Until recently, they also were a rarity among pest control professionals. Bed bug infestations were common in the United States before World War II. But with improvements in hygiene, and especially the widespread use of DDT during the 1940s and '50s, the bugs all but vanished.

The pests remained prevalent, though, in other regions of the world including Asia, Africa, Central/South America and Europe. In recent years, bed bugs have also made a comeback in the U.S. They are increasingly being encountered in homes, apartments, hotels, motels, dormitories, shelters and modes of transport.

International travel and immigration have undoubtedly contributed to the resurgence of bed bugs in this country. Changes in modern pest control practice - and less effective bed bug pesticides - are other factors suspected for the recurrence.

Description and Habits - Pictures and Continued Here

Get Rid Of Fruit Flies With A Homemade Fruit Fly Trap

How To Get Rid Of Fruit Flies With A Homemade Fruit Fly Trap

Anyone who has ever left a few bananas sitting out or forgotten to change their garbage knows all too well the problem with fruit flies. It seems that once they've invaded your kitchen, you can't get rid of them. You can scrub, clean, remove tempting fruit and spray the garbage can with disinfectants, but they always come back. You can't help but cringe just looking at them.

We have always had problems with fruit flies, with one of the main reasons being that we live in an apartment and by law - must recycle. Because of where we live, we have to keep our recycling containers inside until they can be disposed of once a week.

If the recyclables aren't cleaned well enough after being used, they make a perfect breeding ground for fruit flies. They love bits of rotting food remnants and seem to thrive in even the smallest amount.

When fruit flies move in, they just don't want to leave and will lay eggs in and on anything they can find - fruits & vegetables left on the counter, sink drains, garbage disposals, empty bottles & cans, garbage bags, and even mops and rags.

A Few Fun Facts About Fruit Flies:

- Can lay up to 500 eggs at a time
- Their entire lifecycle is complete in about a week
- While considered mainly a pest, they have the potential to contaminate food with dangerous bacteria

We all know that removing the food, getting rid of the garbage & cleaning up plays a big role, but we also know what it's like to move a piece of fruit and have a swarm of fruit flies fill the air only to escape your attempts at killing them.

Where are they gonna go? Obviously the ones flying around can't be easily captured or killed, so they'll linger about until they find some other place to lay eggs and the whole cycle starts again.

In all my attempts, I found the best way to capture and remove the ones that escape is to create a simple trap using a jar, plastic wrap and a piece of food. Here's how it works:

1. Get a small jar you don't plan on using again ( like a baby food jar or something similar ) and wash it out well. Make sure it is not a jar with a funky smell such as a used pickle jar or anything that use to have strong spices. You want a clean, odorless jar.

2. Take a chunk of banana and place inside the jar. This is why you want a clean, odorless jar - so that the banana smell won't be overpowered by other not-so-tempting smells. Banana seems to work the best, but you can experiment.

3. Fit a piece of plastic wrap over the top of the jar, making sure that it fits tight and well sealed around the edges. Then take a pen or pencil and poke 4 to 5 holes in the plastic, just big enough for a fruit fly to fit into. Once a fruit fly crawls in, it can't get out. You would think they would just fly back out through the holes, but they won't!

4. Place the jar in an area where you have seen the most fruit flies. Depending on the amount of fruit flies you have, you can expect to start seeing the jar fill up within just a few hours. After 24 hours, you will discover just how bad your fruit fly problem is!

This simple, inexpensive & safe method works perfectly and if you don't want the jar on public display, you can always slip it behind the garbage can, in the cupboard or even under the sink (Just don't forget about it!). You will want to empty the jar every 3-4 days before any eggs have a chance to hatch.

While adult fruit flies can't easily escape through the holes, their maggots can very easily, and besides that - they are disgusting to see crawling around in the jar. You don't want to see these things crawling on your counter!

Cleaning out the jar shouldn't be a problem. If you have a kind heart, you can choose to let them go outside. Personally, I spray the little buggers with bug spray, wash out the jar and start the whole process over again if I think there are still some fruit flies left to capture.

For bad fruit fly problems, you will want to use this method for a good two weeks to make sure you've captured the majority of fruit flies. You might even want to use a few jars in different places. Before long, your kitchen will be back to normal.

by Carole Nickerson

Carole Nickerson has been a web developer and internet marketer since 1998. Visit http://www.thenetter.com for more free articles, tips and software.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Carole_Nickerson

Cat Repellent, How to Keep Cats Out Of Your Garden

Cat Repellent or How to Keep Cats Out of Your Garden

Do cat repellents work? How to stop a cat from using garden as litterbox? Tell me how to keep cats out of my garden. These are common questions of concern to all gardeners but is there a real answer?

The first line of defence is to ensure that your yard boundaries are secure. Any gaps in your fence should be blocked to deny low level access. But cats can jump so fix a taut wire or string some six inches above the top of your fence to deter this approach.

Once inside your garden many people say that the best cat repellent is a dog who will soon see off any feline invader. If you are not a dog lover then you will have to resort to more passive methods. Since cats like to lie on freshly dug soil you should lay mulch on your borders so that no bare soil is left exposed. Seed beds should be covered with wire netting or twigs arranged as a barrier.

Young trees should have plastic guards fitted around their trunks to protect them against use as a scratching pole. Your garden pond should be covered with netting to keep your fish safe.

Cats are generally known to dislike water so a well aimed bucketful or a squirt with the hose will certainly make an intruder run. After one or two dousings it may learn the lesson and stay away.

To protect plants and borders both mothballs and citrus are said to be effective deterrents. Place the mothballs, orange peel or lemon rind in the borders. Alternatively spray cloths with orange scented air freshener and place the cloths around the plants you wish to protect.

Other known cat repellents are cayenne pepper, coffee grounds, pipe tobacco, lavender oil, lemon grass oil, citronella oil, eucalyptus oil and mustard oil.

Certain herbs are said to deter cats. In particular rue but not catmint which has the opposite effect. Coleus canina is another plant which is marketed by one merchant as a cat repellent.

The broadcaster Jerry Baker has suggested treating your yard with a tonic made from chewing tobacco, urine, birth control pills, mouthwash, molasses, detergent and beer. A small holder has reported success using dried rabbit blood but you may feel that the ingredients listed in the previous paragraph should be tried first.

If you visit your local garden center or hardware store you will find several cat repellent products on sale. These range from electric water sprinklers and ultrasonic devices to sprays and granules.

Motion activated sprinklers act in the same way as a burglar alarm using an infra red detector. When the cat enters the area covered by the detector the sprinkler shoots out a jet of water to scare the animal away. It is claimed that, after one or two encounters with the jet, the cat will learn to avoid the area.

Ultrasonic devices emit a high frequency sound which is annoying to cats (and dogs) but is not audible to humans. There are various different models some of which operate continuously and others which have an infra red detector and only emit a pulse of sound when the cat triggers the device.

To be successful you need to ensure that the model is powerful enough to cover the area you wish to protect. In addition make sure that the sound frequency is designed for larger animals since some models are intended to deter insects and so would be no use for cats.

There are also commercial scent cat repellents. Those that use chemicals should be kept away from any food crops but the essential oil based granule varieties act in the same way as orange and lemon peel mentioned above. Another way to keep a cat out if the garden is a repellent evaporator which consists of a container holding puffed rice which has been impregnated with essential oils. These are effective for three to four weeks and can then be refilled for a further period.

Another natural product which many people claim really keeps a cat out of the garden is lion's dung. You may need to visit your local zoo to obtain this although some stores do stock zoo poo.

In Ontario, Canada the local township provides a cat trap service. Once the animal enters the cage it cannot escape but is completely unharmed. The owner has to pay to recover his pet and so should be encouraged not to let the cat stray in future.

Apparently few owners bother to reclaim their cats but just obtain another kitten. However this sounds like a good way of dealing with a cat that cannot be deterred by any other method. If there is no such scheme in your area, just buy your own trap.

So, to recap, the first priority is to secure your boundary fences. Then you have the whole selection of suggested cat repellents ranging from homemade recipes to expensive commercial gadgets. I would suggest that you try the orange peel and prickly twigs for a start.

If you are around when the intruder appears, try the bucket of water or hose. Even if you miss, the shock may be a sufficient deterrent. If these do not do the trick, then you may have to consider the commercial alternatives.

by Hugh Harris-Evans

Hugh Harris-Evans is the owner of The Garden Supplies Advisor where you will find further articles, gardening tips and product reviews.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Hugh_Harris-Evans

Does Natural Pest Control Work?

Natural Pest Control On The Rise, But Does It Work?

The growing concerns over health and environmental issues continue to drive awareness and usage of alternative methods for pesticide-free pest control. These methods range from home-made remedies to professional pesticide alternatives that are currently being adopted by several national pest control providers.

Today there are only a few pockets of smaller specialized natural pest control operators around the country, but the demand from consumers are creating a noticeable growth pattern in this untapped market as well.

Many cities, state and federal government entities including schools around the country are leading the way in adopting Integrated Pest Management (IPM) programs to reduce or even eliminate the use of pesticides all together. Why the shift to alternative methods? We are beginning to see well documented medical and scientific studies on the negative effects of pesticides being used today.

For example, the U.S. Geological Survey recently released Pesticides in the Nation’s Streams and Ground Water, in March 2006. This study was a 10 year survey from 1992 to 2001 which reveals concerning residual effects of pesticide use.

Every year, nearly one billion pounds of pesticides, many of which are linked to cancer, birth defects, neurological disorders, and environmental impacts, are used in the U.S, much of it ending up in our nation’s waterways.

National Pesticide-Free Resources & Information Many organizations and grassroots movements continue to educate communities and citizens through the tireless efforts of concerned individuals. These efforts are no doubt creating an impact on consumer awareness and product purchasing requirements.

Information on IPM is available at sites such as the EPA at http://www.epa.gov/pesticides/ipm and the IPM Institute at http://www.ipminstitute.org/. A very popular and informational grassroots organization called Beyond Pesticides at http://www.beyondpesticides.org is also informative on new legislation, pesticide news, and pesticide reduction information.

A Balanced View of Effective Pest Control The safe control of unwanted insects and weeds must be pursued with a balanced and global view of efficacy, cost, consequential effects on human health and the environment.

Until today, there has been the perception that safer alternatives cost more or don’t even work at all. Thus, giving rise to the continued use of more toxic forms of pest control. If we don’t see the negative effects immediately, it easily becomes out of sight and out of mind.

Costs for pesticide free alternatives are very comparable to traditional pesticides. The difference in cost per square foot is nominal or even irrelevant when compared to the health benefits of the building occupants.

Does Natural Pest Control Work? So the biggest question I receive from both residential users and professional applicators is: Does it work? In short, YES! As with any pest control product, there are solutions that maximize the control of specific types of pests whether you have ants, roaches, scorpions, termites, mosquitoes, ticks, weeds, or whatever.

Choosing the right products however, is often difficult. So we always recommend those products that meet the performance requirements of organic farmers or professional applicators since they also have a significant financial interest in their effectiveness. Having distinctions from OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute) and Food Tolerance Exemptions also helps filter through the marketing hype while adding another layer of product safety assurance.

If you are fortunate to have a friend or acquaintance that uses natural pest control or IPM methods, getting a personal endorsement is invaluable to help you save time and money. Lastly, always read the label. You’ll find a lot more information than you think.

Don’t overlook the many proven alternatives that will keep your building free of hazardous pesticides and unwanted pests. If you use a professional pest control service, inquire about pesticide free alternatives. If you are doing it yourself and can’t find what you are looking for on your local store shelf, ask the store owner to stock them.

by John Bennett

John Bennett is the President of Eco Safety Products, a national Green Building & Facility Maintenance Supply Distributor. For more information, the company website is at http://www.ecosafetyproducts.com.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=John_Bennett

Types Of Cockroaches, And How To Get Rid Of Cockroaches

How To Get Rid Of Cockroaches

There are five basic types of cockroaches that enter our homes.

American Cockroach
Smokeybrown Cockroach
Oriental Cockroach
Brownbanded Cockroach
German Cockroach

The American Cockroach is probably the largest of all five. The American cockroach has a yellow band across its head. The smokey brown cockroach can be just a little smaller than the American Cockroach and is a dark brown or Mahoney in color. The Oriental cockroach is about the size of the smokey brown cockroach or maybe just a little smaller and is a dark brown or black. These are the three larger cockroaches ranging in size from 1 inch to 1½ inch in size.

The two smaller cockroaches ranging in size from ½ to 5/8 inch are the German cockroach and the brownbanded cockroach. The two somewhat look alike. The German cockroach is probably the most presistant cockroach found in the United States. You'll find these German cockroaches mostly in the kitchen area or around a water source such as bathrooms. They will infest inside your cabinets and other cracks and crevices. Its best to eliminate the German cockroach as soon as possible or you will have a house full of them in no time.

German Cockroaches

German cockroaches can become an enormous problem if something is not done to control them. Did you know that one German cockroach egg capsule can contain 20 to 40 small baby cockroaches when hatched.

The German cockroach is the most persistent cockroach found in the United States. The reason for this, and the reason this cockroach multiplies so quickly is that the egg capsule is carried during is complete life cycle. The German cockroach only releases the egg capsule when the babies are ready to emerge, thus increasing the life cycle of the German cockroach. Most other cockroaches paste their egg capsule to a surface which makes it vunerable to environmental conditions and other predators thus reducing their life expectancy.

German cockroaches normanally live inside as opposed to the American cockroaches and the other large cockroaches that live outside and come inside for food and shelter. The German cockroach is usually brought into your home in a grocery sack or some other way. Lets say you know someone that has German cockroaches in their home, or maybe you don't know that they have them. They come to visit you and boom, you have a house full of cockroaches. German cockroaches as with other types of cockroaches can be brought in in boxes, purses, clothing, furniture (especially used furniture) or anything else.

What cockroaches eat and their health hazards

Cockroaches will eat almost anything, from book bindings, paper, food and even human flesh. Did you know that doctors in some inner city areas report that one-half of the foreign objects they remove from children's ears are cockroaches and that Cockroaches have been identified as a common cause of asthma. Health experts say inhalation of cockroach feces and body fragments, particularly among inner-city children, has resulted in an explosion of ashtma cases in the past two decades. It is believed that the cockroach may be a carrier for a range of bacteria, including salmonella, staphylococcus and streptococcus.

How to get rid of Cockroaches

There are sprays, baits and bait stations. Sprays work well for contact kill but they won't get rid of your cockroaches. Cockroaches will sence the smells and go back into the wall and cracks and crevices and stay away from these sprays until they are gone. Baits seem to work best. I've been treating for german roaches for about 12 years now and all the sprays do is rid your home of these pests for a short period of time. Sure, you're going to kill a few. I've cleaned many homes of German roaches and baits work best. You can call a professional but be careful. Not all companies are honest.

If you do it yourself than here's what you can do. Go to your local hardware store, homecenter or even Walgreen's and buy some ®Combat roach bait gel. It usually comes in a syringe or tube and apply this gel in all cracks and crevices in your home. All kitchen cabinets ( you don't have to empty your cabinets ). Just apply it in tiny dots about the size of a BB and no larger than a pea. Apply it to all corners of your cabinets and anywhere else you see roaches.

Even boric acid works well. If you have a heavy infestation open up all your electrical switch plate covers and apply in the wall through the switch plate covers.

© T. Taylor

If you would like to learn more on getting rid of the cockroaches in your home and what to expect, take the five day email course. Its not as hard as you may think! You will be sent one lesson every day and you can opt out at any time. Visit www.nomorecockroaches.com/ecourse.html. Subscribe to Infobreaks Newsletter and receive a free insect identification guide.
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How To Get Rid Of Spiders

How To Get Rid of Spiders

The best way to get rid of spiders is to prevent them from coming into your home. Trim all shrubs and hedges away from touching your house. If you have a brick home, treat all weep holes. Treat around all doors, windows, eves, cracks and crevices. Caulk all cracks and crevices, doors and windows. Purchase one of those duster type things and sweep away all webs.

One of the reasons you might have spiders is because spiders eat insects. Treat your home for other insects regularly and you should have less spiders. However, ladybug beetles also eat other insects. You could get some ladybugs but they can also become a nuisance.

If you have lots of cardboard boxes around just get rid of them. Spiders love to hang around cardboard boxes. One ofthe reasons you may have spiders in the summertime is that spiders don't like heat. Which is why they come into your home during the summer months for the coolness. They also like to hang around bathrooms and kitchens because there is a water source nearby. I have heard that cats are wonderful for pest control.

Personally, I don't believe in the plug-in ultrasonic devices. Some people say they work, some don't. If the government could prove they didn't work they probably would be pulled off the market. You know the government!

If you are seeing web-spinning spiders don't be alarmed.They are beneficial to help you rid your home of insects and they are basically harmless. Beware of wood piles, boxes and sheds and especially dark areas full of clutter.

They harbor brown recluse and black widow spiders. You don't want these. If cleaning these areas always wear gloves. Insect glue boards work great. Place these glue boards in areas that spiders may be found inside the home. Place them behind toilets, under sinks in bathrooms and kitchens. Behind refrigerators, washer and drier, hot water heaterand also in attics. You may also place them inside your garage on each side of the garage door.

One other thing. Once spiders are in your home, a good vacuum cleaner with a hose attachment will work wonders. This should help you get rid of most of the spiders in and around your home. You will probably never rid you house of all spiders but at least you should be able to keep the population down somewhat.

Some Facts About Spiders

Spiderlings or ( young spiders ) can go long distances floating on a breeze using a strand of silk.

The female black widow seldom devours the male after mating.

Spiders seldom bite people. They only do so by defendingthemselves.

There are about 40,000 species of spiders in the world and only about 4000 in the US.

Some spiders are so small they could balance on the tip of a pencil and some are about fourteen inches in diameter.

Almost all spiders are venomous but only a few are really medically important. The larger the size does not mean the spider has a larger venom capibility.

Spider silk is the strongest natural fiber known.

by Tim Taylor, Copyright 2005

The Author of this article has been in the pest control business for over 12 years and treated many homes for spiders, insects and other pests. To find out more about spiders, cockroaches and other pests and insects and download a free insect identification guide, visit his website and take a free email course at http://www.infobreaks.com