Spiders! Spider Biology, Identity, Control and Prevention Measures
I ran into a great resource the other day for not only controlling spiders, but tons of useful arachnida information and lots of pictures via a website and a PDF report that you can download from The OHIO State University website.
If you have ever wanted to know how to get rid of spiders in or around the house, here is just some of the pest control information information available there
Excerpted from OHIO State University site:
Control Measures
Control of spiders is best achieved by following an integrated pest management (IPM) approach that involves multiple tactics, such as preventive measures, exclusion, sanitation, and chemicals applied to targeted sites. IPM requires a thorough inspection of the building to locate the pest and its harborages. An inspection should be done at night if the species is nocturnal.
An important first step is to correctly identify the spider, as this determines which management tactics to adopt that take into account specific biology and habits. For example, if the spider is a web builder, control efforts should target its web because that is where this spider spends most of its time. On the other hand, active hunters are spiders that move about widely, and some species are most likely to contact insecticide-treated surfaces at ground level.
Within each of the following categories, particular tactics may be more or less applicable, depending on the species of spider:
Preventing spider bites
Shake out clothing and shoes before getting dressed.
Inspect bedding and towels before use.
Wear gloves when handling firewood, lumber, and rocks (be sure to inspect the gloves for spiders before putting them on).
Remove bedskirts. Move the bed away from the wall.
Don’t store boxes and other items underneath beds.
Exercise care when handling cardboard boxes (some spiders may inhabit the space under folded cardboard flaps).
Exclusion
Install tight-fitting screens on windows and doors; also install weather stripping and door sweeps.
Seal or caulk cracks and crevices where spiders can enter the house.
Equip vents in soffits, foundations, and roof gables with tight-fitting screens.
Install yellow or sodium vapor light bulbs outdoors since these attract fewer insects for spiders to feed upon.
Many web-making spiders set up residence near lights that remain on at night. Locate such lights away from the house or turn them off when not needed.
Tape the edges of cardboard boxes to prevent spider entry.
Use plastic bags (sealed) to store loose items in the garage, basement, and attic.
Sanitation
Remove trash, old boxes, old clothing, wood piles, rock piles, and other unwanted items.
Eliminate clutter in closets, basements, attics, garages, and outbuildings.
Store items off the floor and away from walls in basements, crawl spaces, attics, garages, and outbuildings in order to reduce spider harborage sites.
Eliminate household pests (prey) such as flies, ants, and cockroaches that attract spiders.
Do not stack wood against the house.
Remove heavy vegetation and leaf litter around the foundation.
Wash spider webs off the outside of the house using a high-pressure hose.
Non-chemical control
Capture the spider and release it outdoors. An effective technique for capturing hunting spiders is to place a cup over the spider and then slide a piece of paper underneath to entrap it.
Dust and vacuum thoroughly to remove spiders, webs, and egg sacs (dispose of the vacuum bag in a container outdoors).
Outdoors, use a water hose or broom to regularly destroy any webs that are constructed on or around the house. Spiders often move elsewhere when their webs are regularly destroyed.
Use a rolled up newspaper or fly swatter to kill individual spiders.
Use sticky traps or glueboards to entangle spiders.
Insecticides
There are many labeled pesticides for spider control. Some are labeled for homeowner use, while others are labeled only for the licensed, certified pesticide applicator.
Individual exposed spiders can be killed with a nonresidual aerosol spray, but any egg sacs will be unaffected. It generally is best to use a vacuum cleaner so that the egg sac is removed from the premises.
For web builders, insecticide treatments should be applied so that the chemical contacts spiders in their webs. A nonrepellent insecticidal dust is useful to treat webs because the dust clings to the silk and is likely to be contacted by the spider. Residual dusts can be applied to voids and inaccessible areas where spiders may hide.
A wettable powder or microencapsulated “slow-release” formulation of a residual insecticide can be applied to corners, behind and under furniture, behind stored items, etc. to control active hunting spiders. This approach also is useful to prevent establishment of new spiders. Aerosol flushing agents such as pyrethrins, though ineffective by themselves in providing long-term control, can cause spiders to move about so that they contact treated surfaces.
Residual liquid sprays can be applied to the outside perimeter of the home (including under eaves, patios, and decks; behind window shutters), cracks and crevices of decorative molding, undisturbed corners, and other suspected spider harborages. Residual liquid sprays applied to the outside perimeter of the home are not very effective for species that display web-sitting behavior.
The 'Spiders In And Around The House' Report, which has much more information, can be downloaded from the OHIO State University website through this link: Spiders In And Around The House
Labels: pest control, spiders

